Fashion Faces the Future: H&M AI Models and the Pushback from the Creative Industry

H&M's use of AI 'twins' for models sparks debate about the future of fashion, job security, and fair compensation.

Model Mathilda Gvarliani and her digital twin. (H&M)

Hey Talkers, the fashion industry is facing a major shift, and it’s all thanks to AI. Recently, H&M made headlines by announcing they’d be using AI-generated models, or “digital twins,” of real-life models for marketing and social media posts. While it sounds futuristic, it’s got a lot of people—including models and industry experts—wondering what this means for the future of fashion.

BOF breaks it down: H&M is working with high-profile models like Vilma Sjöberg and Mathilda Gvarliani to create these AI versions of their likenesses. The idea is that if a model agrees, their AI twin could be used in campaigns, allowing them to be in two places at once. This could give them the opportunity to land even more gigs, as their virtual self could be used for shoots that conflict with their real-life schedule.

But before we get too excited about AI in fashion, there’s a pretty big backlash brewing. The Creative Industries Union (Bectu) and advocates for models are raising some serious concerns. One of the biggest worries? Job loss. If AI starts replacing real models, creatives in the fashion industry—makeup artists, photographers, stylists—could be next. Philippa Childs, the head of Bectu, says that while models might get paid for their AI likeness, the ripple effect could hurt other workers in the industry. And a lot of workers feel the same—54% of Bectu members believe AI will have a negative impact on fashion jobs.

But it’s not just about jobs—it’s about fairness, too. Sara Ziff, founder of the Model Alliance, has pointed out that the compensation for digital twins is a murky issue. If models are going to let their likeness be used, what should they be paid? And are they truly getting compensated fairly when their AI versions are used in campaigns for other brands?

Sinead Bovell, a model and tech expert, is also concerned about the long-term effects of AI in the fashion world. She’s worried that models could end up getting exploited more in the future, with less regulation and oversight. That's why the Fashion Workers Act, a piece of legislation that requires model consent for AI usage, is coming at a perfect time. It’s set to pass in June, just as AI’s presence in fashion is getting more widespread.

But it’s not all doom and gloom. Some tech enthusiasts, like Michael Musandu, founder of Lalaland AI, argue that AI could actually help increase diversity in fashion. With AI, brands could represent a wider range of models from different backgrounds, something that’s been an issue in the industry for a long time. However, critics argue that AI still falls short—like when AI models have trouble replicating the creativity and innovation of real people, like when AI doesn’t understand fashion trends as well as a seasoned designer.

Plus, AI models are still lacking in that human touch. Fashion is all about expressing identity, personality, and style. Many creatives believe AI will never be able to replace that, and it will always be hard to replicate the spark that comes from working with a real person. As Lucy Yeomans, the founder of the fashion game Drest, points out, AI may not have the ability to create groundbreaking moments in fashion, like when a designer decides to put a belt in an unexpected place.

While high-profile models like Gvarliani and Sjöberg will likely be compensated well for their AI replicas, the entry-level models in e-commerce shoots are the ones at risk. They could face even more competition from AI, which might eventually replace them in budget-friendly, high-volume campaigns.

So what does this all mean? Well, AI in fashion is here to stay, but there’s still a lot of uncertainty about how it will affect real-world jobs and whether it can ever truly replicate the artistry and humanity of the fashion world. As companies like H&M continue to experiment with AI, it’s clear that this will be a hot topic for years to come.

One thing’s for sure: the future of fashion is changing, and it’s going to be up to all of us to figure out how to navigate this brave new world—without losing what makes fashion so magical.

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